Easy Crochet Basket: Beginner Pattern in Three Sizes

At a glance

What you need

• Yarn. The medium basket is designed for two strands of worsted-weight cotton held together. Bulky or super bulky cotton, T-shirt yarn and cotton cord also work. See the yarn section below.
• A 6 mm (US J-10) hook for two strands of worsted cotton. Go smaller if the fabric feels floppy.
• A locking stitch marker.
• A tapestry needle and scissors.

The secret to a basket that stands up

A basket needs stiff fabric. Three things create it:

1. Thick yarn. Two strands held together behave like one thick, round yarn and give a dense fabric.
2. A small hook for the yarn. Tight stitches make firm walls. If you can easily poke a finger between stitches, go down a hook size.
3. Fibre with no stretch. Cotton, jute and cotton cord hold their shape. Acrylic and wool are softer and tend to slump.

Yarn options

Working with two strands: hold one strand from each of two balls, or use both ends of one ball, the outside end and the centre-pull end. Treat the pair as a single yarn and make sure every stitch catches both.

How much yarn? As a rough estimate, the medium basket uses around 150 to 200 m (165 to 220 yd) of worsted cotton in total, counting both strands. That's an estimate only. Tight stitches in doubled yarn use more than you'd expect, so have a spare ball ready.

How a basket is built

1. A flat circle for the base. Each round adds six stitches, spaced evenly, so the circle stays flat.
2. A turning round worked in the back loop only. This makes a sharp fold where the base meets the wall.
3. Straight walls. No more increases: the same number of stitches in every round, so the sides rise straight up.
4. Handles, made by chaining across a gap, and a finishing round.

The whole basket is worked in a continuous spiral without joining, so use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. The magic ring, increasing and spiral rounds are all explained in amigurumi for beginners.

Crochet basket pattern (medium)

In two strands of worsted cotton, the medium basket is roughly 15 cm (6 in) across and 13 cm (5 in) tall.

Base

• R1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
• R2: 2 sc in each stitch around (12)
• R3: (sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (18)
• R4: (sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (24)
• R5: (sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (30)
• R6: (sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (36)
• R7: (sc in the next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (42)
• R8: (sc in the next 6 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (48)

The base should lie completely flat. If it ruffles like a lettuce leaf, your stitches are loose for the yarn: go down a hook size. If it curls up into a bowl, they're tight: go up a size.

A tip for a rounder circle: increases stacked on top of each other make the base look like a hexagon. To avoid that, stagger them on every other round. On even-numbered rounds, start with half of the plain stitches, then follow the repeat, and finish with the remaining plain stitches. Round 6 would become: sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, then (sc in the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 5 times, sc in the last 2 stitches (36).

Turning round

• R9: sc in the back loop only of each stitch around (48)

The top of every stitch is a V with two strands. Work this one round under only the strand furthest from you. The unused front loops form a neat ridge around the edge of the base, and the fabric folds upwards along it.

Walls

• R10 to R21: sc in each stitch around, through both loops, for 12 rounds (48)

Keep your tension firm. The walls will start to stand up on their own after three or four rounds.

Try the basket for height as you go. Add or leave out rounds to suit what it's for: a pen pot can be taller than it is wide, and a bread basket should be shallow.

Handles

• R22: sc in the next 8 stitches, chain 8, skip the next 8 stitches, sc in the next 16 stitches, chain 8, skip the next 8 stitches, sc in the last 8 stitches (48, counting each chain)
• R23: sc in each stitch and in each chain around (48). When you reach a chain, either work 8 sc under the whole chain or one sc into each chain.
• R24: sc in each stitch around (48)

Slip stitch into the next two stitches to smooth the step at the end of the spiral. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Sizes

The base decides the width. Each extra increase round adds six stitches and about 2 cm (0.75 in) of width in doubled worsted cotton.

For the large size, continue the base: R9: (sc in the next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (54). R10: (sc in the next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch) 6 times (60). Then work the turning round and the walls.

Handle rounds for other sizes (the numbers add up to the stitch count):

• Small (36): sc 6, chain 6, skip 6, sc 12, chain 6, skip 6, sc 6.
• Large (60): sc 10, chain 10, skip 10, sc 20, chain 10, skip 10, sc 10.

To make a basket of any size, keep working increase rounds until the base is as wide as you want, then stop increasing. In each round the number of plain stitches between increases goes up by one.

Variations

• No handles. Skip the handle round and work plain rounds to the top. Finish with a round of slip stitches for a firm, corded rim.
• Fold-over rim. Work six extra wall rounds and fold the top down to the outside. It doubles the thickness at the rim and shows the inside texture as a contrast.
• Two-colour basket. Change colour at the turning round, or for the last three rounds, for a dipped look.
• Marled effect. Hold two strands of different colours together.
• Hanging basket. Leave out one handle. On the remaining one, chain 12 instead of 8 to make a hanging loop.
• Leather handles. Skip the handle round. Sew or rivet two short leather straps to the outside of the rim.
• Square or oval base. Start with a chain instead of a magic ring, as in the easy crochet tote bag, and work increases at both ends for an oval basket.
• A lid. Make a second base one round larger than the first, add the turning round and two wall rounds, and it sits over the top.
• Nesting set. Make all three sizes in the same yarn. They fit inside each other, and they make a lovely housewarming gift.

Tips for a neat, sturdy basket

• Move the marker every round. It's the only way to know where a round starts in a spiral.
• Count the base rounds. One missed increase makes the base cup. One extra makes it ruffle.
• Work the walls a little tighter than the base. It helps them stand.
• Choose which side faces out. As you work, the right side, with neat Vs, naturally ends up on the outside if you crochet around the outer edge with the base facing away from you. Some people prefer the look of the wrong side, with its horizontal bars. Either is fine. Decide after the first wall round and keep going the same way.
• Stiffen if needed. For a very rigid basket, work your stitches over a length of cotton cord or rope laid along the top of the previous round. This is called coiling, and it makes a strong, structured wall.
• Block it. Stuff the damp basket with a towel or stand it over an upturned bowl of the right size, shape the walls with your hands, and let it dry.

What to use your basket for

• Yarn bowl. One ball sits inside and the working yarn feeds over the rim.
• Plant pot cover. Slip it over a plastic pot with a saucer inside. Don't water the plant in the basket.
• Entryway catch-all. Keys, sunglasses and loose change.
• Bathroom storage. Rolled flannels, cotton pads or spare toilet rolls.
• Nursery organiser. Nappies, socks or small toys.
• Desk tidy. A small one for pens, a tiny one for paper clips.
• Bread basket. A shallow, wide version lined with a napkin.
• Gift basket. Fill it with a mug and a set of easy crochet coasters, and the wrapping is part of the present.

Washing and care

Cotton baskets can usually be hand washed in cool water, or machine washed on a gentle cycle inside a laundry bag. Check your yarn label. Reshape the basket while it's damp, stuff it with a dry towel so the walls stay upright, and let it air dry. Jute and cord baskets are best spot cleaned, because soaking can distort them.

Common problems and fixes

The base is wavy. There are too many stitches for your tension. Check that each round added only six. If the count is right, go down a hook size.

The base curls into a bowl. There are too few stitches, or the tension is very tight. Check for missed increases, or go up a hook size.

The base looks like a hexagon. The increases are stacked. Stagger them on alternate rounds, as described above.

The walls flop over. The fabric isn't stiff enough. Use a smaller hook, thicker yarn or two strands, or work over a cord.

The walls lean inwards. Your tension tightened after the turning round. Relax a little, or go up half a hook size for the walls.

The walls flare outwards. There are stray increases. Count: every wall round should have exactly the same number of stitches as the last base round.

There's a visible step at the rim. That's the end of the spiral. Slip stitch into the next two stitches before fastening off.

The handles are in the wrong place. Fold the basket flat before the handle round. The two skipped sections should sit directly opposite each other.

My hands hurt. Tight stitches in thick yarn are hard work. Take breaks, and try a hook with a cushioned handle.

Frequently asked questions

Is a crochet basket easy for beginners? Yes. It's single crochet throughout. The only new ideas are increasing in rounds and working one round in the back loop.

What's the best yarn for a crochet basket? Cotton: two strands of worsted held together, bulky cotton, T-shirt yarn or cotton cord. It needs to be thick and not stretchy.

How do I make a crochet basket stiff? Use thick cotton and a smaller hook than usual, and work tightly. For extra structure, crochet over a cord.

Why do I work one round in the back loop only? It creates a crisp fold between the base and the walls, so the basket has a flat bottom and upright sides.

How long does it take? A small basket is a single evening. The large one may take two or three.

Can I make it with one strand of worsted yarn? You can, with a 4 mm hook, but it will be smaller and softer. For the same size, you'd need more base rounds and more wall rounds.

Can I sell baskets made from this pattern? Yes. You're welcome to sell what you make.

More for your home

Once you can make a flat circle and turn a corner, you can make plant pot covers, storage bins, hats and bags. They're all the same idea with different numbers.

• For a matching table set, make easy crochet coasters in the same yarn.
• For a bag that uses the same spiral and built-in handles, try the easy crochet tote bag.
• For a thicker, more decorative wall, borrow a stitch from textured crochet stitches.

Browse the home decor section for more ideas. The Craft Yarn Council's yarn weight system explains the weight numbers used in the yarn table above.